|
Posted by: Kim_Hamilton on 11/02/2009 02:57 PM
Updated by: Kim_Hamilton on 11/02/2009 02:57 PM
Expires: 01/01/2014 12:00 AM
:
Murphys has Plenty for Wine Tasters~Jill K. Robinson, Special to The Chronicle
We were sent this lovely article from a San Francisco resident.....The lone bartender slid the wine glass across the stone-topped bar toward me, saloon-style. I was the only person in the grotto-like tasting room, and received full attention. "Want to start from the beginning?" she said. The beginning of an eight-wine tasting list is certainly a good place to start. Justin, the Lab, stretched out on the floor as I took my first sip of a Calaveras County Fair Gold Medal-winning 2008 Pinot Grigio. I'd come to Murphys for Hatcher Winery's semi-annual wine club event, a dinner and nearly unlimited tasting, however, I had time to scout out some more wineries before committing to the evening bacchanal.....
Late fall and winter, when few leaves actually turn and drop in the Sierra foothills, are ideal times to wander through town without the summer heat and crowds, and to get a comfortable spot at the bar in one of the many tasting rooms.
The town of Murphys is known to Gold Rush historians as having been one of the state's richest "diggins." But this sweet, small town increasingly is becoming known as a wine destination, where boutique wineries are particularly welcoming of visitors seeking tasting and tours. With some 20 wineries in Calaveras County (and just three stoplights), oenophiles can spend a long weekend in the area and still not be able to make it to all the tasting rooms.
Established in 1848 by gold-mining brothers Daniel and John Murphy (which is why the name Murphys is plural, not possessive), the town boomed to 3,000 by 1852 - complete with with taverns, boarding houses, restaurants, blacksmith shops, sawmills and a bowling alley. It still has a Gold Rush vibe and a few boomtown-era buildings, including the Murphys Hotel (where John Muir once stayed), but the town's modern gold is in the form of wine tourism.
Most of Murphys' wine tasting rooms are conveniently located within walking distance of each other on elm-shaded Main Street. My plan was to start with the Hatcher Winery (where I'd eventually end the day), which is a short distance from downtown Murphys. Hatcher's operation uses only native fermentation (no addition of yeast) and is completely solar-powered. Between the quality wine and the lack of natural light in the downstairs tasting room on Main Street, it's easy to lose track of time. The 30-inch-thick walls in the 1859 building keep the tasting room cozy in the winter and cool in the summer.
A short staircase climb brought me to a beautiful golden-stone building, home to the tasting room for Lavender Ridge. Specializing in Rhone varietals, this winery produces hand-crafted, unfiltered wines in small quantities. The tasting room also features artisan cheeses, organic olive oil and lavender products - perfect nonalcoholic souvenirs from gold country.
To maintain enough energy for a few more hours of wine drinking, I needed to take a fuel break at one of Murphys' nice restaurants. I didn't have to walk far (just across the street) to find Grounds, a local favorite with an outdoor patio, where the grilled chicken sandwich includes spicy green chiles and homemade bread. Top it off with a side of sweet potato fries and it's enough to support a few hours of wine sampling.
Next stop: the Newsome Harlow tasting room, just a few doors down and across the street. Like Lavender Ridge, the winery limits production, using premium grapes from carefully selected vineyards. This is the place for red wine - Zinfandels, Syrahs, Meritage and other red blends - so it's easy to blaze through the tasting menu without even touching a white. Cuddle up around the wood stove, and it won't matter what the weather's like outside.
Although the town looks like an old-time Western movie set, there's always a place for the irreverent in Twisted Oak's rubber chicken-decorated tasting room. While I neared the end of my Main Street tasting schedule and needed to stay local, visitors can also go to the source in nearby Vallecito, where the four-level gravity flow winery, 300-foot barrel cave and the 350-year-old California blue oak (which adorns the label) can be found.
But why drive? All I had to do to complete a perfect walking wine tasting day was to wander over to the Alchemy Market & Cafe for house-roasted coffee and a slice of coconut caramel cream pie.
Not just a taste. You get to eat the whole thing.
If you go
Where to Stay
Victoria Inn: 402 Main St., Suite H; (209) 728-8933; www.victoriainn-murphys.com. Comfortable rooms with a European-eclectic style. Conveniently located in the middle of the action on Main Street. $125-$310.
Murphys Hotel: 457 Main St.; (800) 532-7684; www.murphyshotel.com. Dating from 1856, this hotel has a mix of modern and historic rooms. If you require a TV and don't want to share a bathroom, pick a modern room. $89-$165.
Where to Eat
Grounds: 402 Main St., Suite A; (209) 728-8663; www.groundsrestaurant.com. Mountain bistro with hearty meals. The lunch menu's burrito is a monster.
Alchemy Market & Café: 191 Main St.; (209) 728-0700; alchemymarket.com. Gourmet market, deli, wine bar and restaurant. Live music on the patio every Tuesday night.
Wine shopping
Hatcher Winery: 425 Main St.; (209) 605-7111; www.hatcherwinery.com. Reasonably priced wine covers a wide spectrum of tastes, from the lightest white to big Zinfandels.
Lavender Ridge: 425 A Main St.; (209) 728-2441; www.lavenderridgevineyard.com. Grab some lavender along with your wine purchase. You can even bottle your own organic olive oil.
Newsome Harlow: 403 Main St.; (209) 728-9817; www.newsomeharlow.com. The large, elegant tasting room makes it easy to bring a larger group - or make new friends.
Twisted Oak: 350 Main St.; (209) 736-9080; www.twistedoak.com. Bring your sense of humor. You'll need it to taste wines named River of Skulls and *%#&@!.
What to Do
Holiday Festival of Wines: Nov. 14, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; visit Calaveras County tasting rooms and enjoy winery holiday traditions, festive decorations, tasty treats and wine. Go to www.calaveraswines.org.
|
| What's Related |
| These might interest you as well
Local News
Calendar
phpws Business Directory
Photo Albums
|
|
|
